Thursday, July 22, 2010

Let it snow Argentina

Argentina has welcomed us with some of the friendliest encounters of our trip, more snow and cold than we care to remember and a farm stay cut short. We have crossed another 10,000 foot pass and will be in the 1,000 foot - and flat! - farmland region for the next few weeks. We´ll keep the wheels rolling! The ag area we´ve entered is primarily a sugar cane growing region. B.O.B. has been converted into a cane hauler for some quick energy on the road. The caretaker of the community hall offered us a floor to sleep on and delivered sugar cane. I think I know why there are so many dentists around. Off to the races. We crossed these three siblings at a small restaurant miles from the nearest town. Shortly after rolling up on Jojo, the bikes came out and the race was on. We played official starter instead of joining in. Making friends everywhere we go. The grazing pigs - I guess they graze - responded favorably to my oinks and gathered around. 360 days of sun....we were stopped in this town for 3 days waiting for the road to be cleared of snow. We experienced 2 cloudy days and heard the 2 days before were cloudy as well. The rest of the year is looking very bright! A long curvy and icy road slowed the 9,000 foot descent. This 30 mile stretch of canyon contained some of the most spectacular scenery thus far. Thick growth forests blanketed in snow. WOW. Slowing down for an icy patch. This area hadn´t seen snow in 10 years, so clearing the roads isn´t a well defined process. The wait for sun approach seemed to be the main clearing method. Climbing out of the valley. The dry side of the mountain is one of Argentina´s major wine regions. We tested our sewing skills to keep our feet a little warmer. A used winter coat gave itself to become our shoe covers. Cold under the clouds. We spent a few days waiting for the warmth. The cloudy weather kept the temperatures near freezing for most of the day. The last two weeks have been winter vacation for school kids. In Argentina, that is a time to hit the roads and travel. This family stopped while we were taking a break. The grandmother´s parting advice was Don´t worry, be happy to a jig that Bobby McFerrin would be proud of. South of Jujuy, Argentina we took a more scenic route filled with Argentine tourists. That allowed us to have cameo shots in 19 home videos and be in hundreds of pictures. This family, with a Wisconsin exchange student connection, brightened our day with a long stop for pictures, stories and invitation to a BBQ if we get to their town. Devil´s throat, Oblisk, Toad, Friar, and Castle were rock formation along this route. We met people from across the country and South America along the way. Even in winter, the campgrounds are in use. The German traveller on the right has taken his land cruiser over N and S America for the last 5.5 years...with plans to ship to Africa before too long. The Argentine in the middle was full of stories and stopped roadside a few days later as we crossed paths again on a climb. There is always more to explore. Mr. Swimmer, go in with your swimsuit. Quite possibly the largest pool we´ve ever seen. Eric (in the middle) had to get a better look. In summer this fills with thousands of swimmers. Too bad we are 4 months late. The typical hostal doesn´t have a workshop for bikes. Here a crowded room is doing the trick. We´ve become quite adept at snaking Jojo up stairways and around corners. Two of our farm hosts. Gerrardo and Mattheis. We enjoyed our time working with them. Christie couldn´t be happier sporting her rubber boots and playing in the dirt. A significant portion of the food for this 7 person place came from the garden. Fixin´ fence. We were able to dive into some familiar tasks as we spent a little time on the farm. Good to settle down for a week. The look out from the volunteer´s cabin. The setting was wonderful, but in the end we decided to leave early. Maybe we´ll find another farm down the road. Since our last posting, we made one of the most difficult decisions yet, to leave the farm, and keep the wheels rolling South earlier than planned. We´ll see what the next few weeks bring as we move towards Uruguay, then swing back towards the West.
Christie´s Uncle Rich has dedicated several minutes of his life changing words to well known tunes. His re-write of Rawhide is listed below. Sing with gusto and blow some hot air our way!
Keep rollin, rollin, rollin Headin south on tandem, Keep those legs a pumpin, - Nelsons Through rain and wind and weather, Exploding spikes and rubber, Knowing my gal's on my backside.
All things we're missin
Good food, metal and nursin
Are waiting at the end of our ride.
Breakin down, fix em up,
Fix em up, breakin down,
Breakin down, fix em up, - Nelsons
Goin south, riden hard,
Riden hard, goin south,
goin south, riden hard, - Nelsons
Movin, movin, movin,
Popin pills called Motrin,
Keep ol' JoJo rollin, - Nelsons
We're desperate for a shower,
We're down to our last dollar,
Soon we'll be livin just on pride.
Our heart's calculatin,
Our bed and jobs are waitin,
Are waitin at the end of our ride.
Breakin down, fix em up,
Fix em up, breakin down,
Breakin down, fix em up, - Nelsons
Goin south, riden hard,
Riden hard, goin south,
goin south, riden hard, - Nelsons
(repeat as often as tolerable)

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Our seven year anniversary?!

As we rode through an amazing canyon this morning, we had a awareness that has alluded us for much of this trip. Not only did we know the day, but also the date...and both at the same time. The elation level increased as we realized today is our seven year anniversary. No, not marriage we are much more seasoned in that institution, but this was the day we summitted Mt. Katahdin in Northern Maine, thus completing the Appalachian trail. We reflected on reaching the top, touching the sign together, looking at each other and saying almost in unison, ¨Now what?¨ As we rolled down the road, it was encouraging to think of others who had removed themselves from their comfort zones and became inspirations to us. A good friend from our Peace Corps days has pushed the edge on more extensive trips and, if anything, helped us see the possibilities. Maybe that is part of our purpose.....helping others see possibilities and opportunities. Regardless, life for us just wouldn´t be the same without pushing the edges! July, 3rd, 2003. On top of Katahdin. Don´t we look young! Not a tree in sight. Northern Chile was an amazing place to see for a few days. At taking us nearly 2 weeks to get across, it became much more of a challenge than we expected. Towns were few and far between. We found a campground with running water where we could take a partial rest day, do some laundry and take a shower. The locals were thankful!
Desert camping. Warm days, cold nights and sandstorms. Later this night the wind switched directions and brought a dust bowl to the tent.
Camping on the salt flats. A few stubborn shrubs held tight and provided a wind block. This night Eric provided the entertainment, reenacting Christie´s favorite TV shows...Project Runway and Design Star. At 3:00 am when we woke to an unexpected heavy fog and drips on our faces, Eric realized his design flaw in the Design Star show titled ¨Tent¨...the rain fly was necessary (being in the driest desert in the world...who knew?).
Straight up. 30 Km (18 miles) and more than 1800 meters (6000´) elevation gain in 5 hours. We kept looking back and could see the town where we stayed the night before.
This volcano hung on our left hand side the whole day. No matter how hard we pedaled (okay walked) it never left our side.
At least the pumice stone scattered about provided entertainment at a roadside rest.
Finally after a night below freezing, no top of the mountain in sight, time ticking away to get to our WWOOF volunteer opportunity, and Christie in tears, Enrique stopped and offered a ride. We couldn´t get loaded quickly enough and took a quick trip over the mountains and into Argentina. The salt flats we expected. Early flats were more mud colored, these much more white. In the heat of the day we could hear the crust creaking and cracking.
Green again. We were excited to see trees, grass, water and have some downhill to go with the uphill.
Now we are in Northern Argentina and will take 3 to 4 weeks off and volunteer on an organic farm. We are excited to stop the wheels for a little while, let the warming of places farther South in Argentina begin and think about what possibilities may lie ahead.